48 hours in Nice, France

Pastel-colored buildings, North African influences and a divine city beach

Day 1

So I’m down on the French Riviera for a few days before heading to Corsica. 48 hours in the capital of the Côte d'Azur is far too little, but I’m far too OCD to step out of my 48 hours in… feature. So here we go.

Nice is such a pleasant surprise! First time here and I really did not hope for more than something semi pretty, fancy and touristy, but man, I have been completely blown away by the beautiful pastel coloured buildings, the influences from Northern Africa, the kind people and the incredible nature that surround the city. Here’s how you should spend 2 days in the marvellous Southern French city.

09:00 Roll out of bed in the cute and friendly Maison Durante, a more than decent stay about a 20 minute walk from the city center. Don’t have your breakfast here. Like I’m sure it’s nice and all, but Nice is really the place to see a city wake up by the sidewalk with a café au lait, so don’t waste your time in a hotel. Also, most hotels I stayed in France charge (a lot) extra to have a petit déjeuner on site. Head to Edmond Café for a great start of the day.

11:00 You’re fuelled up and ready for some art in the beautiful Musée Matisse. Henri Matisse, a French painter, print maker and sculptor was not born in Nice but spent some serious time here, shaping some of his most iconic work. You’ll be tempted to hop on the bus, but instead do the 45 minute walk uphill to reach the museum. You’ll walk past the city’s most elegant and historic neighbourhood; Cimiez and its insane Belle Epoque villas. You’ll daydream about living in Nice (well, being rich living in Nice). Bring some snacks and a bottle of water for the hike. It’s a bit of a walk and not really any cafés or shops around. The museum building itself is stunning and the exhibition is great. Treat yourself to some beauties in the museum shop afterwards!

14:00 Take a bus back to the city center for a late lunch which you definitely should have at the cosy Bistrot d’Antoine. Aaaah, I can’t get over how the French take all their meals so seriously in the best possible way.

16:00 Make your way down to the Promenade des Anglais, the beautiful beachfront, and one of the most iconic coastal walks in Europe. If you’re feeling fancy, rent a sun bed and order a glass of champagne at the Plage Beau rivage. I splurged, and it was lovely, but as I ran out of money the following days, having a picnic on the stony beach worked just as well. If you’re not bothered about loosing your chicness for a few hours, bring your ugly plastic beach sandals so you can walk more comfortably on the stones and slide into the water. Treat yourself to being a cringey tourist,
it’ll be worth it.

18:00 Grab an ice cream from Fenocchio in Vieux Nice as you make your way back to the hotel. This dairy joint has some bold flavours going on. Challenge your taste bud with beer-, herb-, olive- and cactus ice cream. Or be a Plain Jane and have the choclate. Either way it’s next level.

19:00 Time to chill. As a solo traveller I appreciate getting the mini bottles of wine (sold at any supermarché) that come with a mini plastic wine glass attached to it. That, and French hip hop playing while showering and getting ready for the evening. Best feeling. Do you also make up stories of yourself living in the city you’re visiting? he he Best thing I know. In Nice, I was a divorced actress living alone in a large flat. Bit too many cigarettes and young men. After realising I was still a Swede in a long term relationship, at this point a bit tipsy, it was time to get out of the hotel room and hit the town again.

20:30 Get yourself down to Le Bistrot des Serruriers, a wonderful lil bistro in the old part of the city. You know the kind of place where they only have three or four main courses on the menu but these few dishes are the best thing you’ve ever eaten? That kind of place. Stay late and have an extra glass of Crémant. The staff is really lovely too. Top tip!

22:00 Not ever feeling old though I’m over 40, but I have to admit “party” now equals an after dinner drink. Have it at the Barrique wine bar. After that, bitch needs to sleep. If you’re travelling with your family/with kids, it’s so so nice just ta grab a third ice cream of the day and stroll round Place Garibaldi. It has one of these old beautiful Merry-go-rounds! Look at this child free woman giving away tips for family like it’s nothing he he

23:00 Stumble home through the magical Nice evening. Have a quick cigarette on the balcony. No, I don’t either smoke since ages ago, but it goes with the vibe ok? Bonne nuit.

Day 2

09:00 Breakfast is really something else in Little Café. After last night’s decadence (or juggling of children) either way you need to get your energy levels back on track. Order the french toast with the pistachio cream. Simply divine!

10:30 Time to visit Colline du Château, a park on a hill in the middle of the city. First, visit the beautiful graveyard Cimetière du Château, and head next to the lookout over the Baie de Anges and the whole city. It’s really magic. Have a coffee refill at the café, and catch your breath before heading down the stairs together with the billions of guided walking tours.

13:00 Head to Liberation, a nice neighbourhood with more of a local feel than in the city center. I generally walk everywhere, and Nice is really walkable! La Gare du Sud is an old train station turned food court where you should go to people-watch, and definitely grab a bite in one of the many great spots.

16:00 A hot tip for a fancy late lunch is the absolutely gorgeous Hôtel du Couvent.
A 5 star hotel that also serves as a restaurant for those of us who can’t splurge on a 1000 dollar hotel room. Enter by the orange tree shaded courtyard and smell the roses. The aesthetics can not be described better than “monastery core” if that makes any sense? Super spartan and ultra luxury at the same time. If you wanna try something local, you should have the most expensive tuna sandwich of your life. The fact that it’s called Pain Bagnat and not tuna sandwich helps, and remember you pay for the orange blossoms and the people watching. Pain Bagnat can also be found very cheap elsewhere FYI he he

Hôtel du Couvent is totally the place to bring you notebook and write your travel stories in. Given the money you just spent on a piece of bread, be sure to get your money’s worth and don’t leave this beautiful place any time soon

19:30 Have an early evening stroll in the hipster area of Le Port. We’re talking natural wine bars, vintage stores and what not. Have a glass of wine at the combined wine shop and bar/restaurant La Part des Anges

22:00 Cruise back to the hotel. Watch tired waiters take the last orders of the evening, and the young and the beautiful get ready to dive into the night. Perhaps you might even join them.

All photos by me